Day 52. Banos Beauty

Me and Lotte have breakfast then head to get the bus. We need to get to the main bus terminal, its about an hour away by the metro but it still only costs 25c. 

Arriving at the terminal is very strange, outside you have the traditional tiendas but as soon as you go through the doors its like another world- everything is so modern and new. 

We soon find the counter for Banos (not hard when they are all shouting at you) and buy our tickets, i then find myself running for yet another bus as apparently its about to leave. On board and the bus is pretty empty meaning me and Lotte can both stretch out. 

The journey isnt too bad and provides some stunning views of the country, vast mountains and tiny towns. 

One of the views from the bus journey

We make it to Banos only a couple of hours later than expected and head in search of our hostels. We are staying at different ones as im on more of a budget and didnt want to spend the extra £2 a night, thats an entire meal guys.

The Great Backpackers is a bit out of town and down a slightly sketch street but its great. The rooms are big, they have a bar/ restaurant, a movie area and breakfast is included. It also has a really nice atmosphere though the only downside is the staff will only speak in Spanish. That isnt a bad thing as if, like me, you need practice but it can lead to a lot of confusion when you use the wrong words or dont know how to ask for something. 

After dropping of my bags and meeting one of my roomies (Amanda from Ireland) I venture into town to explore. Its a really cute town that has kept its traditions despite having a high tourism trade, you can also see one of the nearby Waterfalls from just about anywhere in the town. 

Its a little pricey for the souvenirs and higher end restaurants but you can also eat in the market or find small stalls for what you need, knowing how to bargain in Spanish also helps. 

I lose track of time exploring ao its  a late dinner and after a brief drink in the bar and chatting to some of the others in the hostel its time for bed. 

Banos!

Day 51. Quito

I wake up to my first day in Ecuador and ive had a good sleep, the beds here at The Blue House are really cosy which is good as the city itself is quite cold. 

I head off in search of breakfast and am slightly confused when I get given a tray with 2 slices of bread on from Reception. I sit down in the lounge area not quite ready to eat and only thinking the lonely bread strange for a minute before dismissing it, its better than nothing. 

A few minutes later and the lady from reception is giving me a weird look, when i go to say im not hungry yet she explain i have to go outside for breakfast… Okay? 

Seems odd but as i go outside and turn the corner I find another building. Inside is people from the hostel and on the table is tea, coffee, juice, jam, fruit and a toaster- now it makes sense! 

After breakfast i brave a shower, its slightly hot so i dont completely get frostbite. While trying to warm up in bed i get talking to Lotte from Denmark, she has also just arrived and is trying to make a plan. For the first time in a while on my travels I dont even have a rough idea for where im heading, just a couple of things id like to see, i borrow Lottes guidebook and try to make a  route heading South though with so many options its difficult to choose.

We take a break and decide to explore the Old Town. Its a short bus ride away and one of the few things to see it Quito. The streets are busy and there are people selling everywhere, i even spot a guy trying to sell 2 tiny puppies and have to fight the urge to buy them, wanting to snatchthem off the guy as theyre clearly too young to be away from their mum let alone outside. 

We head to the main square where we see the Presidential Palace and Cathedral and there are so many museums. Further out of town (which is all very steep) we find an old Cathedral and park, it looks so odd amongst the shops and cafes.

After all the steep walking we are starving so find a little cafe for lunch. Something that should be simple turns into the most difficult situation ever, im pretty sure the waiter doesnt even speak Spanish as everything we say he just shakes his head. Even when pointing directly to the menu (which is in Spanish) he seems confused and asks again what i want. Eventually somehow we manage to order and pay, not understanding the confusion, my spanish isnt great but i know when im ordering food and speaking correctly.

More wandering and window shopping and we head back, still needing to decide on a plan. Lotte has decided to head to Banos tomorrow, its somewhere i was thinking of going but not straight away though as i dont have another idea i might as well! 

Im still tired from the long journey here so after cooking dinner (with some fresh veg i got in town) I have an early night. 

Day 40. Great Idea!

Despite my luxurious bed (it really is great) i didnt sleep that much. From the barking dogs to the cockeral who cant decide what the time is it was a noisy night. 

I had hoped to get out and explore the island but its pouring with rain when i get up and doesnt seem to be stopping. I get dressed and read for a bit, also being entertained by the kitten at the hostel who has decided my skirt looks like a great toy.

Its almost lunchtime by the time the rain stops and im starving, i had a few cheetoes leftover from yesterday so that was my nutritious breakfast though cant say it was filling.

Me and the girls head out for coffee and also stop at the supermarket, stocking up in case of another pour down. 

There are loads of places that offer tours around the island as well as bikes and mopeds for hire. We decide that renting bicycles will be fun and is better than the mopeds- we have seen how the people drive here. 

We set off (there is only one road that goes around the entire island) and i feel like a kid again, remembering the days in the school break when you would go out for the whole day or ride to Cherry Lane, surviving off a few pounds! 

We stop first at Punta Jesus Maria, the closest beach out of town. There is a guy who tries to charge us but Ana and Rita know spanish so they talk him into letting us go free (we are pretty sure it a fake fee anyway) so we padlock our bikes and head on. Its not like any beach ive seen before, the sand is black and there is forests on the edges. We only stay a short while and then its back on the bikes, now realising that actually bike rides are painful and hard work- we are all sweating and probably smell judging by the following of flies!

We ride through towns and villages, some more advanced than others but the view of Volcano Conception visable throughout. Everything is green and theres cows, pigs and horses roaming around and also so many colorful butterflies. Wereach San Jose Del Sur- our turn around point. We find a small bar that looks out on the lake and enjoy a beer, trying to put the painful ride back off for as long as possible.

Climbing back on the bikes and we decide we are just going to ride the entire way with no stopping, get the pain over with as soon as possible. Its tough, occasionally having to slow to a stop to let the chicken buses pass and also speeding up with legs burning to get away from the whistles and cat calls. 

We reach the town finally and return the bikes, feeling strange walking again but so relieved. We also find out that it was a 28km trip, again i found myself doing something that seemed like a good idea at the time and now im not so sure!

Its showers and chill, we look an absolute mess and cant even complain- the boys hiked the 10 hours of Volcano Conception and arent even tired! 

I cook my dinner and then head to bed, no goodnights this time! Hopefully earplugs will block out the confused cockerel and his friends.

Day 35. León

After the long journey yesterday i thought i would sleep forever but the nearly 40 degree heat makes that very difficult. 

Now that its morning i finally get to see my room- theres 10 bunk beds, lockers, a bathroom and 4 fans. All the fans seem to do is spread the hot air around, its almost unbearable.

As usual im starving so go in search of the breakfast thats included. I find the kitchen area and there are a few people also up.

It seems that breakfast here is black coffee and pancakes that you make yourself, though you can only have 2 as theres a limited amount of batter for the entire hostel. It will do!

Im literally sweating just from being near the stove so after ive eaten its time for a shower. The ensuite isnt too bad though theres no hot water, not that it really matters as the cold water is all you want.

I head out to explore and wander around. There are op shops everywhere (second hand clothes) and lots of little stalls offering watch repairs, fruit, bracelets and other souvenirs. 

I find my way to the central park, every town here seems to have one and this is no different. León cathedral towers over the square, the stunning white walls in contrast to the small pastel houses and market stalls. 

As im sitting in the parque i nearly have a heart attack- a loud siren booms out accross the entire square, it sounds like something from the war! As i look around no one has even flinched, continuing to go about their daily business. It continues for a couple of minutes then stops as if it had never happens, i find out later its to do with the church.

I make a trip back to the hostel to collect my laundry and then drop it off, its more expensive here but there is no where for me to dry it at the hostel if i wash it myself. I also book Volcano Boarding for tomorrow and its a chance for me to get my Spanish back into practice, hardly anyone spoke it on Utila and im already a little rusty.

A quick trip to the supermarket and its back to the hostel, time for my signature pasta dinner! There still isnt many people around but im used to it now, its low season because of the weather so everywhere is a bit quiet but it does make everything cheaper.

It seems its movie night as a cuban film is playing on a tiny TV in the seating area, its in Spanish and has German subtitiles though after trying for a bit i give up and head to bed as i can barely follow.

As i lie in bed trying to get my body temperature below boiling, i notice there is a huge whole in the ceiling above my bunk. The ceiling panels have run out and so corrugated plastic has been put over instead but its obviously shifted as now its just a giant gap and i can see the sky through the building- lets hope it goesnt rain! 

Day 13. In a day?

I feel like I only just went to sleep when my alarm goes off at 4am.

Its an early start, but I know the day will be worth it as I get to see some of the best Mayan ruins in Mexico and beautiful waterfalls.

Our hostel boss Santiago has made us breakfast and left it in the fridge with our names and a little note, its so cute and definitely appreciated for the day thats ahead.

The bus collects me from the hostel and we begin the drive to our first destination- Agua Azul. Its 2 and a half hours before we stop for breakfast and another hour and a half before reaching Agua Azul. Everyone on my bus for the tour speaks Spanish and so does the driver so its a lot of guessing as to what hes actually saying. I understand the amount of time we have to spend and when i need to be back at the bus which is the important part.

Agua Azul is absolutely stunning, with several waterfalls and swimming areas spread around the huge forest. Its a protected area and has a lot of wildlife including toucans, though im not lucky enough to see one. With my broken spanish i manage to get someone to take a photo of me (I forgot the selfie stick) and then to my suprise im asked to be a part of their photos! I laugh to myself afterwards imagining them going back to their families and talking about their trip, showing the photos and then theres me, “look at the white girl we met!”

After the fun of the photos its back on the bus for another hour to reach Misol-Ha, another great sight. 

Theres steps that go down to the area you can swim in and you can also walk behind the waterfall. If you continue up past the fall you reach a set of caves where a man stands with a set of torches, enticing the brave! For 10 pesos (about 40p) you can go inside and explore, of course i went in! 

No one else wanted to go so i set off by myself into the dark. The caves are really small so you have to walk hunched over (yes, even midget me) and make sure you step on the make- shift path. Eventually you reach the end where the caves open out and theres a mini waterfall accross a small lagoon. Its pretty creepy being in the dark by myself and i make the mistake of pointing my torch to the ceiling-hundreds of bats line the cave and with that i make my hasty return to the entrance! 

Again its back on the road for an hour and a half and we reach the final destination, the one im most excited about- the Mayan ruins in Palenque. 

As you step off the bus its absolutely crazy- vendors everywhere calling out their menus, children trying to sell you jewellery, tour guides trying to get your business, women trying to sell you clothes. Its the first time I’ve  really seen the tourism side to Mexico, and im not a fan.

Inside the site its huge and absolutely fascinating. The ruins are in such good condition and in some places you can enter or climb. Something i learn pretty quick is that the Mayans were super fit! The steps are huge and the buildings are so high. The strength and skill it must have taken to craft the settlement amazes me. 

We get a lot of time to explore (which you need to fully appreciate it all) and while im waiting to get on the bus for the last time i cant help but feel so small. I think its easy to forget what came before us, how time has changed and everything that goes on in the world, being in this incredible places puts a lot in perspective. 

The 6ish hour journey back to San Cristobal goes quite quick and before it gets dark you can see just how varied the landscape here is. Mexico is a huuugee place and though ive only seen a small part of it ive seen how different it all is. One thing that doesnt change though is the fact that the road markings seem to just be for decoration and you can do whatever you want! 

My bus drops me somewhere in the town around 10ish and I manage to find my way back to the hostel (I felt very proud of this, no map or street signs!). 

Quick shower and its straight to bed, tomorrow im taking it easy!