Day 44. Costa Rica

Another early start for another border crossing, to think I used to think they were exciting! 

Me and Emma (my buddy for the border) meet up and head to the bus stop. We need to get a bus to Virgen and then change to another bus for Penas Blancas at the border. Its super busy but we find a seat, asking the ticket guy to tell us when we need to get off (no where has signs). 

We sit and wait for our stop, having been told its around a 40 minute journey. After around 20 minutes the bus has stopped (as it has been doing) and a guy takes my bag and throws it to the road, thinking that he is confused or trying to take it i tell him its mine and to put it back which he does. A few minutes later we decide to ask we are close only to be met with very anxious faces and an angry driver as we are told we have missed the stop. Turns out my we were supposed to know that my bag being thrown out was their way of saying we should get off, despite no one actually saying anything.

Its not a major problem, the bus is heading to Rivas which is a main transfer town so we can just pick up our second bus from there, its just a slightly longer journey. 

This time they tell us its time to get off, though as if to punish us for being ‘stupid tourists’ we are dropped outside of the town and not at the bus station (where the bus is going anyway!). We are swarmed by the usual mass of Tuk Tuk drivers all telling us its too far to walk. Considering its only $1 to get to the station and not wanting to walk we get in. 

Its a bit of a nervous ride as the 2 of us are squeezed in with our bags and its one of the models with the seat stuck on the front and the bike behind. We are taken on the ‘scenic’ route (i.e the longest way for more money) but do arrive at the terminal.  

Just as we are grabbing water and trying to ignore the throng of taxi drivers and other hagglers a guy tells us we are about to miss the bus. We have to run with our bags and literally jump through the doors as the bus is driving away. It is super packed and there is no room for our bags, leaving us with no choice but to leave them in the aisle making everyone climb over them. I feel bad and like nuisance but theres no other option.

Arriving at the border its a hive of activity, crowds of travellers, vendors, drivers and touts trying to sell you immigration forms. We reach the building for Nicaragua immigration and after paying the 3$ fee get our passports stamped, stopping to exhange our cordobas for colons. Its an okay rate and unless you want to carry around currency you may aswell exchange. 

On the Costa Rica side its a bit more confusing, there are dozens of cars and buses but no immigration office to be seen. After a short wander around (its now swelteringly hot) we get told we need to walk down the road ahead. It seems to go on forever and i can feel the sweat down my back by the time we see the border.

Despite it being extremely busy and no one seeming to understand the concept of a queue its an easy crossing. Theres no fee and you simply fill out the immigration form and say why youre visiting (tourism) and youre on your way.

Outside and its time for me and Emma to part ways, she is heading north and im going South. I take my pick from the bus companies and get a ticket for San Jose. Ive no idea how long the journey is and there doesnt seem to be any food around. 

There are several woman selling drinks and snacks so i buy what turns out to be sugar and cheese bread and some pretzals. 

The journey is actually quite long (around 10ish hours) and by the time i arrive in San Jose my resolve is gone. I dont like to arrive in places when its late especially big cities, it just limits your options and increases your chances of being ripped off.

My hostel is far from the bus terminal so I get a taxi, another of my dislikes. I can now hold a conversation in Spanish and feel confident during the taxi journey, thinking the taxi driving is nice and is being fair as the meter is on without me asking. 

Arriving at the hostel i pay the fare (which uses ALL of my money) and check in. Only then do i realise how ive been completely ripped off, it cost around 17,000 colon which is nearly £25! I had assumed that it just seemed a lot because of the currency and Costa Rica being expensive but no, just another taxi driver being an ass, goodbye to a whole days worth of money! 

I dont have the energy to be angry for long and after going to the ATM to pay for the hostel and a shower i head to bed. Its a really nice hostel (Casa Del Parque) and the staff are friendly, it even has a DVD room with sofas, real sofas! Sadly its a short stay but im going to more exciting things. 

Day 43. Rain or Shine

Waking up this morning to the noise of beeping cars and screaming children doesnt put me in the best mood, though as i managed to have my pool/ sunbathing day yesterday and get money out I try to let it go.

Anna has convinced me to go to the beach with her so after packing my lunch (homemade guacamole with tortillas) and grabbing some bananas from the market we buy our tickets for the bus. 

We are going to Playa Hermosa which is apparently better for surfing and only around 15 minutes away. As we arrive im not convinced as it still looks quite rocky and to make it even worse it starts to rain just as we find our spot.

Determined to wait it out we stay put, freezing in just bikinis though luckily it passes and soon the sunshine is back. Anna heads out surfing while I try to get as tanned as possible, reading and listening to my limited music selection.

After lunch I borrow Annas board and decide to have a practice. The waves are good and its not too cold though after i take a fall and nearly lose my entire bikini I call it a day… I dont need to be tanned everywhere! 

We get a truck back, packed with surfers and their boards and back in town i head off in search of toiletries. Ive nearly run out and its going to be much cheaper here than in Costa Rica.

Most things are easy to find but apparently Nicaraguans dont need conditioner, just a lifetimes supply of shampoo and gel. 

Eventually getting everything I need I head back to the hostel and have a shower, feeling satisfied that i have got slightly more defined tan lines. 

After dinner i pack my bag and try to work out how i will cross the border to Costa Rica in the morning. Whilst asking at reception i meet another girl who will also be leaving tomorrow and so we arrange to do the journey together.

I say my goodbyes to Anna and head to bed, sad to be leaving San Juan- another place thats made it on my ‘could stay forever’ list.

Day 41. Off again

Its a quieter night and a better sleep, i think maybe the cockeral got my telepathic threats and decided to stay quiet.

I have a shower and pack up my stuff, ill be getting the ferry later to leave Ometepe for San Juan Del Sur and so need to empty the room. Im allowed to leave my bag in the hostel though so i head out for breakfast and to kill some time before i need to be on the boat at 12pm.

I find a nice little cafe by the port though the owner is not as nice as the food, pretending not to understand my spanish and saying they didnt have half of the menu when i tried to order. Its good coffee anyway and i have a nice view of the lake so i keep my manners and still thank her for the breakfast.

After grabbing my bag i head to the dock, thinking that the boat hasnt arrived yet (I am 15 minutes early) but in fact the boat that i can see which i thought was just for cargo is actually what i will be going on- its even more basic than  the first one i used. Its tipped to one side even without anyone on it and doesnt even have any sides or seats except a few below.

The journey is a lot smoother than my previous one and i actually nod off for a few minutes, lying on the deck whilst trying not to roll off. It seems not everyone felt as serene as i did as 2 small sisters throw up near the end- directly in front of my bag. I have never prayed for anything more in my life than i did in that moment, willing gravity to stop working long enough for me to move my bag out of the projectile path (they werent even trying to use a bin?!). 

Finally back on land and through the port gates there is a flurry of activity. Crowds of drivers trying to get you into their bus or taxi, practically taking your bags from you. I find another girl who is heading the same way and so we get a collectivo for 200 cordobas each (around £5, bit expensive for a short journey but i just want to be in the ocean!).

Driving through the town i know im going to love it in San Juan Del Sur and as i arrive at my hostel (Surfing Donkey) it gets even better. Theres a pool, balcony with hammocks, bar, kitchen and party nights- what more can you want! I dump my stuff and head out to look around, finding the beach and supermarket and also somewhere for laundry.

Its all going great so of course the balance needs to be restored, i try to take cash out and both my cards are not working- again!

I have just enough cash to buy some bread and pay for my laundry, having to get my mum to phone the banks for me for the third time, it is so frustrating.

I head back to the hostel and shower, while im sitting with a book another girl joins the table and as i look up i realise its Anna- a girl who i had met in Leon a week or so before. We catch up and chat and head to make dinner, though with mine being only bread it doesnt take much preparing! Anna is nice enough to share her guacamole and fruit with me while shes cooking so in the end im actually quite full. 

Its funny the people you bump into while travelling, those who you think youll never see again and how sometimes they turn up just at the right time.

We watch the sunset on the balcony and Anna tries to convince me to surf with her tomorrow though nothing is going to persuade me from my plan of pool/sunbathing all day, ive missed it and im basically back to my england whiteness (okay, maybe not quite but my tan has faded!)

I head to bed, happy again that its cooler at night and i can get cosy under my sheet.

Day 40. Great Idea!

Despite my luxurious bed (it really is great) i didnt sleep that much. From the barking dogs to the cockeral who cant decide what the time is it was a noisy night. 

I had hoped to get out and explore the island but its pouring with rain when i get up and doesnt seem to be stopping. I get dressed and read for a bit, also being entertained by the kitten at the hostel who has decided my skirt looks like a great toy.

Its almost lunchtime by the time the rain stops and im starving, i had a few cheetoes leftover from yesterday so that was my nutritious breakfast though cant say it was filling.

Me and the girls head out for coffee and also stop at the supermarket, stocking up in case of another pour down. 

There are loads of places that offer tours around the island as well as bikes and mopeds for hire. We decide that renting bicycles will be fun and is better than the mopeds- we have seen how the people drive here. 

We set off (there is only one road that goes around the entire island) and i feel like a kid again, remembering the days in the school break when you would go out for the whole day or ride to Cherry Lane, surviving off a few pounds! 

We stop first at Punta Jesus Maria, the closest beach out of town. There is a guy who tries to charge us but Ana and Rita know spanish so they talk him into letting us go free (we are pretty sure it a fake fee anyway) so we padlock our bikes and head on. Its not like any beach ive seen before, the sand is black and there is forests on the edges. We only stay a short while and then its back on the bikes, now realising that actually bike rides are painful and hard work- we are all sweating and probably smell judging by the following of flies!

We ride through towns and villages, some more advanced than others but the view of Volcano Conception visable throughout. Everything is green and theres cows, pigs and horses roaming around and also so many colorful butterflies. Wereach San Jose Del Sur- our turn around point. We find a small bar that looks out on the lake and enjoy a beer, trying to put the painful ride back off for as long as possible.

Climbing back on the bikes and we decide we are just going to ride the entire way with no stopping, get the pain over with as soon as possible. Its tough, occasionally having to slow to a stop to let the chicken buses pass and also speeding up with legs burning to get away from the whistles and cat calls. 

We reach the town finally and return the bikes, feeling strange walking again but so relieved. We also find out that it was a 28km trip, again i found myself doing something that seemed like a good idea at the time and now im not so sure!

Its showers and chill, we look an absolute mess and cant even complain- the boys hiked the 10 hours of Volcano Conception and arent even tired! 

I cook my dinner and then head to bed, no goodnights this time! Hopefully earplugs will block out the confused cockerel and his friends.

Day 39. Why Not?

I had such a satisfying sleep last night, the drop in temperature and humidity greatly needed. The only downside is that im now decorated with quite a few mosquito bites- pesky things! 

As i am waking up the good mood doesnt last for long, theres is a loud knocking on the dorm door and as i open its the guy from reception looking not so happy. 

He is quite angrily asking why i locked the door last night, its a shared dorm and he had to sleep in the hammocks because of it. Its at this point i remind him that he told me the dorm was empty, that no one else was staying in it and also the fact i never saw anyone else enter the room- from the point i arrived at around 2pm untill i went to sleep around 2am (because he and his friend decided to get drunk and fight outside). 

He is still annoyed, saying that they never the lock the doors (though why would i not, theres no security at the front and im by myself?!) but dismisses it, he is after all meant to be working.

I have a shower and get dressed, making sure all my stuff is packed. I would rather avoid the guy after our little disagreement but he does work here and i want breakfast, though luckily it seems im forgiven as its now a joke with his friend- admitting he has been sleeping in the hammock for the past week anyway!

I make my way to the meeting place for my shuttle, it will take me to the port at San Jorge so i can get a ferry to Ometepe Island. 

Its a short journey and i arrive with plenty of time to get my ticket before the ferry leaves. I have a slight moment of panick when i realise there are several ports on the island, not having checked which one i need for my hostel, luckily a ticket vender knows and so i buy my ticket to Moyogalpa. 

Im sitting on my bag, waiting until i can board and of course one of the tourism officers come over to talk to me. Its the usual conversation- am i by myself, where am i going, why am i by myself, he can show me around. Im reaching my limit of how much i can be bothered to entertain his questioning (knowing full well if i was male he would not have spoken to me) when a girl comes over and asks if i want to sit with them- Im saved! 

She helps me with my bag and we sit in a restaurant, i couldnt be more grateful! There is Rita and Ana from Portugal and Ben from Australia who are also going to Moyogalpa. We chat and get some food and then head to the dock to board the boat. 

Now i wasnt expecting anything 5* but the rustic boat that awaits makes me think id maybe like to pay for the real ferry, not the ‘lancha’ that this is. We get on and find a space- not that easily done as its over crowded, and begin the crossing.

We are crossing Lake Nicaragua and the journey should only take an hour though by the time its over i feel like its been a lifetime. Despite it being a lake its pretty rough with the over weighted boat not helping with the swaying, i have always had strong sea legs but recently they seem to be failing me!

On land and the dock is a hive of activity, everyone trying to get you to their hostel or hotel. I have seen a cheap deal online so we go to check the hostel though it turns out there is 2 of the same place and we are at the wrong one. A short, sweaty walk later and we find the correct building though its location is less that ideal- its pretty isolated and there are no lights so we head off in search of another.

As we are walking up the main street a rep from the first hostel offers us a deal- we each pay $6 and we get 2 private rooms. There is 5 of us as i also bumped into Jack on the ferry (who i met in Guatemala) and so it means we each get our own bed with the 2 girls sharing a double.

It seems like luxury after staying in dorms, theres even towels formed as Swans on the beds and the filtered water is free- you know its a posh place!

A few showers later and we head out for dinner. Moyogalpa is the main port on Ometepe and though it means theres a lot of choice it also means more harassing and slightly higher prices because of tourists.

We settle on a place (i forgot how difficult in can be in a group, trying to find somewhere that everyone likes) and it turns out to be quite good, i get quesadillas con queso and even enjoy a beer! ( i have found a brand that basically tastes of nothing).

The 2 girls and Ben head out for more drinks but its bed for me. Back at the hostel and Eduardo one of the staff is still up, Jack says goodnight and heads to bed. I read for a bit then say goodnight too, though apparantly just saying it isnt enough- 2 kissed cheeks and an over extended hug from Eduardo later i lock my door. Without sounding like a crazy feminist it angers me that some of the men here feel its okay to invite themselves into your personal space. 

I get asked a lot how it is being a solo female traveller and the truth is its mostly fine. However you do get more attention and you do have to be more careful, i make sure that when i go out my top isnt low or my dress isnt short or that im not puttig out ‘the wrong signals’ and in this day and age that shouldnt be the case. Other female travellers i have met have said its the same though its obvious it hard to explain to guys who dont understand why its annoying and thinks its flattering. Its something they just dont experience.

Day 38. Lets Go To Granada

Im up at my usual time and so dont need to rush for my shuttle that is picking me up at 9am. 

I have a shower, pack my bag (I have it down to an art form now) and head to make my pancakes. No one else is up and so i sneakily have an extra pancake- im such a rebel! The bus is right on time for once and isnt full so i get a whole row to myself.

The journey is only around 3 hours and goes pretty quick, im so used to travelling for 10+ hours so this is like a little hop on tour. Im dropped at my hostel, La Libertad which id found on HostelWorld purely as it was the cheapest here. 

Something ive also realised is that the fee you pay when booking on HW goes straight to them and not the hostel, ive been wasting money the whole time! From now on i just find the one i want and turn up, its extremely rare that a hostel will be full at this time of year and if it is they will normally squeeze you in somewhere for a deal.

The hostel is huge and even has a pool but the best thing is that Granada is so much cooler than León. I check in, make my bed and then head out to explore.

The streets really remind me of Antigua and of course i find the central park with you guessed it, a church. Its pretty quiet as it has been raining and it seems like more is coming, i was hoping to find somewhere to eat but its pretty expensive as its the main tourist street so i head back to the hostel which has cheaper food.

My lunch/ dinner is a veggie burger with chips and it tastes so good, its hard to find a real vegetarian meal and for only £2.40 im happy. As im sitting after finishing my food it starts to pour with rain and i feel like someone has dumped a bucket of water over me. I jump out of my seat and look up, a hole has formed in the roof directly above where i was sitting and the rain is now falling though- nice little shower!

It turns into a full on storm with thunder and lightening and the rain floods everywhere. At the same time I am skyping home, trying to be heard over the noise of  it all.

Eventually the weather calms and i venture back out, i decide im going to leave for Ometepe Island tomorrow and so book a bus. I also head to the bank, after my last island experience im not taking any chances with cash! 

The two staff on reception are playing a drinking game with another person over skype, its quite funny watching someone try to work whilst drunk. We play cards and ping pong and i use the time to catch up on updating the blog as i have been a bit behind! 

After a shower i head to bed, the excitement of not actually sweating every time i move and being able to wear pyjamas stops me from sleeping at first though not for long, time to nod off.



Day 36. Volcano Hike Again?

My shuttle is picking me up at 8am to go to the volcano so i miss the pancakes today, having 2 bananas instead (they are super cheap here, less than 1p). 

I wait outside as the night guard is still asleep on the floor, he wont hear when the driver knocks let alone come and get me. 

In the jeep there is 4 of us as we drive to Cerro Negro, its nice when theres a smaller group especially as its a pretty bumpy road and you need all the holding on and bracing room possible. Its abour an hour untill we arrive and as we pull up it dawns what we are about to do- the volcano is huge. 

We get our bags and our board and begin the hike to the top- im not sure how i keep finding myself doing things i said i wouldnt, like hiking another volcano. 

Although the climb isnt difficult the searing heat is what makes it a struggle. The sun bears down and theres not a shady spot in sight. As we climb higher the views get better and better and there are hundreds of butterflies flying around, its beautiful. The land is so black and baron its suprising that such a delicate thing exists here.

We reach the top and survey the incredible view, theres an incredible contrast between the black rock of the volcano and the forest that has grown over the old lava. The ground is hot and you can see steam in some places around the crater.

We put on our boiler suits, gloves and goggles and prepare to go down. Im nervous and excited in equal measure and as my turn comes i get on my board.

Before we had started our guide had shown us the different positions depending on how fast you want to go. As i begin to go down im sitting in what is meant to be the slow position but apparently this volcano doesnt care much about technicality and I hurtle down.  

I feel like i can half control the board and just as i wave to my guide who is videoing i hit a bump and go flying. I cant stop my momentum and as I roll down my only thought is to cover my head, i dont know where my board has gone and i dont want a concussion. 

When i finally come to a stop i see my guide running towards me and my board in his path. I do a quick check and nothing has broken so i get back on the board and finish the ride.

The last part of the volcano seems to be the steepest and again my speed picks up. All i can do is hold on and close my eyes, theres so many rocks flying up and even with goggles and a bandana i can feel them on my face.

I reach the bottom and my adrenaline is going crazy, it was so much fun! I was the second to go so while we wait for the others to come down i take off my suit and empty the rocks from my shoes. Ive escaped with just a cut elbow but i am covered in black dust- showering is going to be fun! 

We get in the jeep and drive back to town, we are dropped off at the tour office so we can collect our t shirts and our free beer. I still have aquired the taste but anything is good when its this hot.

Im starving so i head next door and grab some lunch, i get veggie pasta for the equivalent of 50p but its only a small portion and it does not do the job so i stop at the bakery for a cheese roll (18p) too.

Back at the hostel and i cannot wait to get in the shower. I scrub every part of me though i know im going to be pulling rock out of my hair for the next few days. The water is black and its even in my ears.

I feel a million times better and so grab some bits for dinner and also organise my bus for another days time. Its cheaper to stay here so despite the uncomfortable weather its another 2 nights, who knows maybe alwas sweating is good for the pores?!

Although Nicaragua is meant to be one of the safest and most laid back countries, its the place where ive found the men most ‘forward’. Walking down the street theres whistles and calls of ‘Bonita’, its easy to ignore but what annoys me is the noise they make here to get your attention. Its the same kind of noise you would make if you were trying to call a cat, it really gets under my skin-Do i look like a house pet?! No.

Todays dinner variation is mac + cheese, hopefully this time will go better than my last attempt! Its successful though i cant say it resembles much of a meal, its difficult enough trying to cook on hostel stoves- every time you have to try not burn your fingers or eyebrows off.

I have another shower and head to bed, though i have now moved to the bottom bunk as the plastic has moved further and so the top is covered with bits of old ceiling and dead bugs, gross.

Day 35. León

After the long journey yesterday i thought i would sleep forever but the nearly 40 degree heat makes that very difficult. 

Now that its morning i finally get to see my room- theres 10 bunk beds, lockers, a bathroom and 4 fans. All the fans seem to do is spread the hot air around, its almost unbearable.

As usual im starving so go in search of the breakfast thats included. I find the kitchen area and there are a few people also up.

It seems that breakfast here is black coffee and pancakes that you make yourself, though you can only have 2 as theres a limited amount of batter for the entire hostel. It will do!

Im literally sweating just from being near the stove so after ive eaten its time for a shower. The ensuite isnt too bad though theres no hot water, not that it really matters as the cold water is all you want.

I head out to explore and wander around. There are op shops everywhere (second hand clothes) and lots of little stalls offering watch repairs, fruit, bracelets and other souvenirs. 

I find my way to the central park, every town here seems to have one and this is no different. León cathedral towers over the square, the stunning white walls in contrast to the small pastel houses and market stalls. 

As im sitting in the parque i nearly have a heart attack- a loud siren booms out accross the entire square, it sounds like something from the war! As i look around no one has even flinched, continuing to go about their daily business. It continues for a couple of minutes then stops as if it had never happens, i find out later its to do with the church.

I make a trip back to the hostel to collect my laundry and then drop it off, its more expensive here but there is no where for me to dry it at the hostel if i wash it myself. I also book Volcano Boarding for tomorrow and its a chance for me to get my Spanish back into practice, hardly anyone spoke it on Utila and im already a little rusty.

A quick trip to the supermarket and its back to the hostel, time for my signature pasta dinner! There still isnt many people around but im used to it now, its low season because of the weather so everywhere is a bit quiet but it does make everything cheaper.

It seems its movie night as a cuban film is playing on a tiny TV in the seating area, its in Spanish and has German subtitiles though after trying for a bit i give up and head to bed as i can barely follow.

As i lie in bed trying to get my body temperature below boiling, i notice there is a huge whole in the ceiling above my bunk. The ceiling panels have run out and so corrugated plastic has been put over instead but its obviously shifted as now its just a giant gap and i can see the sky through the building- lets hope it goesnt rain! 

Day 34. A Long Road

So today i make the 15 hour trip accross Honduras and into Nicaragua. Its going to be a long day and before i can even start the journey i have a ferry to catch.

Its a short way to the ferry port though the Tuk Tuk drivers seem insistant im unable to walk it, After about my 5th refusal i think they finally get the hint. 

I load my bag and find a seat, mentally preparing for the crossing ahead. I sit waiting for the waves but thankfully they never come, its a million times calmer than my previous crossing and im so grateful.

An hour later and im off the ferry, i look around the busy arrivals and spot the ‘Leon Shuttle’ sign. Theres a few of us and the driver tells us to get in a taxi-well this is new! We get in but without our shuttle driver, not actually knowing where we are going. 

We are driven for about 10 minutes then dropped off in a Burger King car park and told to go in, this was not what i imagined and no one else seems to know whats going on either. 

We are waiting for around 20 minutes, during which the shuttle driver appears and we finally get into the right vehicle. Once we are all in he explains how the journey will work-there are movies, WiFi and we even stop for free fruit and coconuts. He is actually a really friendly guy despite the earlier confusion and it seems like this will be my most luxurious journey yet!

We watch a couple of movies and try not to think about the hours ahead. The stop for fruit and coconuts is refreshing, we fill up on banana and pineapple and then its back on the road.  

Another few hours pass though the movie selection has now been exhausted unless anyone has a taste for spanish documentaries. Then its the lunch stop, its short but just enough time to get some rice and roti and use the bathroom- they had real hand dryers, Electric ones!   

I sleep on and off untill we reach the Honduran border at around 9pm. We have to queue for a bit and to say it feels sketchy outside of the offices is an understatement. My fingerprints are taken and i get my exit stamp, I had been worried as the date on my entry stamp isnt very clear and there are stories of people being made to go all the way back to their point of entrance for another but its fine.

We then get back in the bus and drive to the Nicaraguan side, this time we stay in the bus and the driver collects our passports along with the $12 fee. Its an un easy wait as we have to put our trust in a guy we dont actually know though theres a slight distraction while we exchange our money with one of the border tours, its actually a good exchange rate and he even takes one guys euros. 

We get our passports back though Nicaragua does not give an entry stamp at this border- my heart stops, its a long way to an immigration office but luckily its explained that our stamped reciept (mental note- do not lose!) will be accepted and we should not have a problem, phew! 

We continue on our drive, stopping several times for the shuttle and our passports to be checked by immigration officals to make sure theres no smuggling going on. 

Further down the road our van slows to a stop, from the windows we can see a group of 8 policemen begin to walk over and we can sense something isnt right. Everyone sits up and puts away their phones and headphones, waiting for the door to open.

There are 2 with the driver, 1 to the side, 2 that open the side door and 3 open the back door. The smile and greet us in Spanish, asking for our passports which they take and hand back without even checking. Whilst the 2 at the side talk to us, 1 of the 3 at the back leans on the seats while the remainder lean on the door frame- we can read the body language, its intimidation and we know it but we dont show anything.

They ask us how the border was and if we saw the touts, if we say yes they will know we have Cordobas (the Nicaraguan currency) so we deny it and say we stayed in the van. They are looking around the van and spot that some people have plastic cups.

A few people had bought a bottle of rum on one of the stops and were drinking it. The police question a lot about it, asking where the bottle is and where it was bought, but they just say they bought the 1 drink each. If they give up the bottle the police will take it and fine everyone, they could also use it as a reason to search bags.

After what feels like forever they take our excuses whether they believe them or not and we can drive. Everyone is a bit on edge and knows how different it could have gone. Ive got goosebumps and deffinitely wont be forgetting the experience any time soon, i naively always felt that if travelling in hired shuttles then you were safe from that kind of situation. 

Everyone is quieter for the rest of the journey and as we arrive in Leon its gone 11pm. Thankfully we are dropped off at our hostels and after checking in i head straight to bed, albeit awkwardly as its giant bunkbeds again with no ladder.