Day 15. Crossing Over

The day has come for my first border crossing, its the end of my time in Mexico but the start of my Guatemalan  adventure.

Luce is also crossing the border today so we are both up early for the first bus (there will be 4) and Santiago has once again made us a delicous breakfast. 

I feel excited and nervous about whats to come, both of which will fade however as the length of the journey ahead dawns on me, it will take 10 hours before I reach my final destination.

Before we have even left San Cristobal we change onto our second bus which will be the one that takes us to the Mexican border. Its takes around 5 hours (with a toilet break halfway) and as we pull up to the immigration office my feelings fear and excitement return.

Before i came away i did as much research as i could about the border crossing and theres a lot of conflicting information as to whether you should pay a ‘fee’ for leaving Mexico. Generally if you have flown in then you should not pay, but this can change. 

Determined that i was not going to pay the fee i approach the intimidating officer at the desk and hand him my passport and immigration card (you must not lose this when you arrive) with my most confident ‘Buenas Dias’. You are only allowed to enter the office in pairs and the person who enters with me has already been processed, leaving me alone with 5 immigration officers all watching while the rest of the bus waits in line outside.

He is completely silent and doesnt look up from his computer for what feels like an eternity untill finally he checks my passport, looks at me, then starts speaking in Spanish about how i have to pay 400 pesos. Now i still have not mastered Spanish but i know enough to work out what hes saying but play the confused tourist, pretending i dont understand. He then points to a sign behind me that says if you have stayed longer than 7 days you must pay. 

I say that i have visited immigration in San Cristobal and they have assured me i do not have to pay anything. This goes back and forth a couple of times until he shrugs, gives up and reluctantly stamps my passport- Win for me!

The same speech is given to everyone who enters immigration but we all refuse to pay, leaving a bus of happy travellers and a set of not so happy corrupt officers. 

We then drive for around 10 minutes where we are dropped off in a crazy border town. The driver tells us (in Spanish, they never speak in english) that we must stay together, do not stop, do not go to the bathroom and keep all your bags on you- real confidence boosting guy! Its then a 5 minute walk to the Guatemalan immigration office where again you line up outside and enter in pairs or threes. 

I hand over my passport along with the others and they take an un necessary amount of time checking the passports, looking through the pages, stamping and signing them. The passports are then sorted into 2 piles- the first lot given back and allowed to leave and the second pile is held onto while they tell us we have to pay a ‘fee’ to enter the country, great.

Again we all refuse to pay and the officer gives up pretty easy, confirming that it isnt a real fee at all. 

We are then all waiting for our connecting bus (bus number 3) outside and the town is something like i have never experienced before. It is busy on a scale i have never seen  with people crossing the border from both sides, vendors with their stalls, children begging and touts exchanging peso for quetzales. 

We could be waiting for hours so we get comfy (as much as possible in sweltering humidity and cramped space) and i change my remaining pesos for quetzales. You have to be careful with how you do this but speaking in spanish will ensure you get a better rate as well as going for the guys who are around the office- the dodgier ones dont risk getting caught in the act. 

After about an hour and a half our bus shows up and we cram in, it makes mexican buses seem luxury. The border roads are pretty poor and its a bone jarring 4 hour drive though it gives a good view of the Guatemalan landscape- its a lot greener and more sparse than Mexico.

At a petrol station its the final bus change, me and two others who are heading to Quetzaltenango (Xela for short) get in another bus that drops us at our hostels. 

I get my dorm and chat with an Australian couple who are also staying the night, they are leaving for a 3 day hike in the morning the crazy pair! 

They invite me out to dinner with them and a friend and we head to an Indian restaurant ( I know, in Guatemala? Not going to argue on an invite) and the food is amazing. Its a bit weird hearing people say Indian dishes while talking in Spanish and the menu translations are quite amusing. 

Its an early night for all and I climb into bed having to remind myself i have changed countries today, crazy.



Day 13. In a day?

I feel like I only just went to sleep when my alarm goes off at 4am.

Its an early start, but I know the day will be worth it as I get to see some of the best Mayan ruins in Mexico and beautiful waterfalls.

Our hostel boss Santiago has made us breakfast and left it in the fridge with our names and a little note, its so cute and definitely appreciated for the day thats ahead.

The bus collects me from the hostel and we begin the drive to our first destination- Agua Azul. Its 2 and a half hours before we stop for breakfast and another hour and a half before reaching Agua Azul. Everyone on my bus for the tour speaks Spanish and so does the driver so its a lot of guessing as to what hes actually saying. I understand the amount of time we have to spend and when i need to be back at the bus which is the important part.

Agua Azul is absolutely stunning, with several waterfalls and swimming areas spread around the huge forest. Its a protected area and has a lot of wildlife including toucans, though im not lucky enough to see one. With my broken spanish i manage to get someone to take a photo of me (I forgot the selfie stick) and then to my suprise im asked to be a part of their photos! I laugh to myself afterwards imagining them going back to their families and talking about their trip, showing the photos and then theres me, “look at the white girl we met!”

After the fun of the photos its back on the bus for another hour to reach Misol-Ha, another great sight. 

Theres steps that go down to the area you can swim in and you can also walk behind the waterfall. If you continue up past the fall you reach a set of caves where a man stands with a set of torches, enticing the brave! For 10 pesos (about 40p) you can go inside and explore, of course i went in! 

No one else wanted to go so i set off by myself into the dark. The caves are really small so you have to walk hunched over (yes, even midget me) and make sure you step on the make- shift path. Eventually you reach the end where the caves open out and theres a mini waterfall accross a small lagoon. Its pretty creepy being in the dark by myself and i make the mistake of pointing my torch to the ceiling-hundreds of bats line the cave and with that i make my hasty return to the entrance! 

Again its back on the road for an hour and a half and we reach the final destination, the one im most excited about- the Mayan ruins in Palenque. 

As you step off the bus its absolutely crazy- vendors everywhere calling out their menus, children trying to sell you jewellery, tour guides trying to get your business, women trying to sell you clothes. Its the first time I’ve  really seen the tourism side to Mexico, and im not a fan.

Inside the site its huge and absolutely fascinating. The ruins are in such good condition and in some places you can enter or climb. Something i learn pretty quick is that the Mayans were super fit! The steps are huge and the buildings are so high. The strength and skill it must have taken to craft the settlement amazes me. 

We get a lot of time to explore (which you need to fully appreciate it all) and while im waiting to get on the bus for the last time i cant help but feel so small. I think its easy to forget what came before us, how time has changed and everything that goes on in the world, being in this incredible places puts a lot in perspective. 

The 6ish hour journey back to San Cristobal goes quite quick and before it gets dark you can see just how varied the landscape here is. Mexico is a huuugee place and though ive only seen a small part of it ive seen how different it all is. One thing that doesnt change though is the fact that the road markings seem to just be for decoration and you can do whatever you want! 

My bus drops me somewhere in the town around 10ish and I manage to find my way back to the hostel (I felt very proud of this, no map or street signs!). 

Quick shower and its straight to bed, tomorrow im taking it easy!

Day 12. San Cristobal

After my 13 hour bus journey (which wasnt too bad) i arrive in San Cristobal and get to my hostel. 

The hostel I have chosen (Hostel Posada Mirador) is exactly what i need, its homely and inviting and theres not a bunk bed in sight! 

Its a bit fresher here in the mountains so i keep my jumper on (Top Tip- make sure you have layers to put on when travelling by bus long distance, the AC will freeze you) and collapse onto my bed. 

Its all of about 30 seconds before im chatting to Aaron and Jacob and ive exchanged some of my pesos for Guatamalan quetzals with Jacob (for what is apparently a good rate, i do check). They are getting the bus in a couple hours to Cancun but before then are heading to one of the Artesian markets here and invite me along. Theyve also been travelling with Luce who joins us too.

The town is the picture of mountain living and i feel like ive been transported back in time. There are woman in traditional dress and brightly coloured houses down each street and the architecture is so pretty.

The market is huge and filled with handmade goods and we also pass by a church that has a service in progress. The singing drifts out into the town and its enchanting. Another thing that you notice while walking around is the amount of coffee shops and the smell of freshly roasted coffee beans, San Cristobal is one of the best areas in the world for coffee.

Anyone who knows me will tell you how much a love nik naks, so i cannot resist buying a brightly coloured braided bracelet that sums up the life and vibe of this place so perfectly.

We grab food and head back to the hostel where the boys grab their bags and go, Luce is staying for a few more days so we sit and chat.

I have a shower and head to bed, im so tired from the journey and have booked onto a trip tomorrow that means i have to be up at 4am, so much for an easy day! 

Day 11. Adios Amigos

Its my last day here and Its my hardest goodbye yet.

I pack my bag (this is something that has gotten old,real quick) and make sure everything is ready to go before a few of us head to the beach. 

Its a beautiful day and the sea is perfect, i have my last few swims and as we sit its hard not to think about changing my bus ticket and staying forever. Rose, Dan and another Dan that has joined us, do not help my thoughts and are also trying to get me to change my plans and stay another day. I know I cant and that i have so many more beautiful places to see but its hard not to dream in a place like this.

I leave their tempting words and grab dinner on my way back to the hostel, tonight its falafel empenada and its delicious! Pete has also wandered down and so we head back, me dragging my feet.

Everyone else begins to arrive back at the hostel from their day and a pool party begins. Im having the best time and feel so sad to be leaving. I take too much time showering and packing my last few things that I only have time for quick goodbyes before having to rush to the bus station. 

I have such a heavy heart leaving this place, but i have more adventure ahead.

Day 10. Lazy days

I lose track of the time here in Puerto, its so beautiful and relaxed its almost like life is in slow motion.

I decide I need to get organised and the first thing on the to do list is laundry. I could do it myself but to be honest I just cant be bothered! Its only 30 pesos (around £1.15) and I can collect it this evening freshly ironed. 

Then I have to decide how im getting to San Cristobal, the town i need to be in to cross the Guatamalan border. I book a bus ticket with ADO (a national bus company which is relatively cheap) that leaves tomorrow (Sat) at 9.30pm. Its a 13 hour journey but I hope Ill sleep for most of it! 

A quick browse on HostelWorld and ive got accomodation sorted too, now I can get back to my relaxing! 

I meet Rose, Pete and Christophe down at the beach though its a shady spot for me this time, still a bit pink from the last trip! The afternoon rolls by and in the early eve i visit another beach called Playa Bacocho. 

It has a (not so official) program where a local man collects the turtle eggs from along the beach and then in a secure environment waits for them to hatch (otherwise other animals and people would kill them) and you then help release them into the sea. The turtles are the cutest thing i have ever seen, and its actually quite a touching experience. They still have a journey ahead but its nice to think you might have helped a little. 

Back at the hostel and our little gang has grown. More people have checked in through the day including Irishman Marti, Aussies Dan and Tristan and also Tena who is from Mexico City. Its meant to be ladies night at Cabullah (a nearby bar) so we all get ready to go out. Now, this is where it all gets interesting. 

Theres a lengthy debate about whether or not we should go out because we dont know if anywhere will be serving alcohol after midnight (its already gone 11). Its because on Sunday its the elections in mexico and 24 hours beforehand alcohol sales are not allowed (because the government doesnt trust the population not to be drunk or hungover when voting). Theres a lot of different information and faffing but we eventually decide to get a taxi to Zicatela where the bar is. 

Its quite busy and we manage to order a drink, only then to find out they will now stop serving and we wont be getting any more. Its a pity because the bar is really nice, it opens onto the beach and is like something from a picture. We try the supermarkets but they wont sell alcohol either.

We are wondering what to do when we hear that there is another bar further down that is still serving so we decide to take our chances. Of course the place is packed and super crowded, i havent seen this many tourists since i left England, but we can drink so everyone is happy, for the time being…

The bar has to shut early, probably part of the deal its made with the police so it can sell alcohol, and some of the others in the club arent happy. A couple of fights break out and theres a dodgy atmosphere outside so we make a quick exit. 

Back at the hostel no one is ready for bed so we sit chatting by the pool, much to the dismay of the hostel night guard who keeps popping up in the dark with his torch and telling us to be quiet (even though we are). 

My last night in Puerto Escondido is over, its been eventful but i feel content and head to bed happy. 

03.06.16

Day 8. Paradise?

Waking up in a pool of your sweat isnt how most would like to start the day, me included. The heat and humidity in Puerto Escondido is beyond anything i could imagine. Ive talked before about it being hot and sweaty but this is a whole new level.

Shower is the first thing of the day and i feel like a new person afterwards. I still feel a bit tired from the traumatising journey here so instead of going to the shop I pay for breakfast from the hostel. Its 40 pesos (around £2) and you get whatever you want; theres fresh fruit, toast, cereal, yoghurt, tea/ coffee and juices.

Rachel and Rose are up too and invite me to one of the nearby beaches. We grab our stuff and walk down and the view im greeted with is what you picture when you think of Mexico- white sands, blue sea and sunshine.

The sea is just the right temperature and theres no current or huge waves- perfect.

A few hours later and we decide to do some surfing. The girls had been a couple days ago and so are up quicker than me but i get there and finish on a high, with my last wave taking me all the way to shore (before i jump off because what else are you meant to do? If someone could tell me that would be great).

We get falafel wraps on our way back to the hostel which are amazing and then do what seems to be the thing when travelling- chill and chat.

After my shower i realise that i may have missed some spots with the suncream and i should maybe buy a higher factor… Im slightly crispy from my time in the sun and as a result sitting down is an interesting process.

Rachel gets the bus to San Cristobal and Pete has other plans so me and Rose along with Christoph (a very beautiful french man) and Fabian (a german guy who arrived today) head to Congo, the club down the road.

Tonight is salsa night with a live band-its crazy and i love it. We order margaritas but end up ditching them (you need an iron stomach and accustomed taste buds to handle the tequila here) and i get a pina colada instead- heaven. Its a great night, its hard not to have fun with the energy of everyone and the atmosphere.

Its raining when we leave which makes it cooler and so we are hopeful sleep will be better tonight- though with my sunburn ill probably make up the temperature difference, sorry guys!

Day 7. Hola

So, it turns out that night shuttles are one of the most painful experiences you can give yourself. Not fun. Its also interesting trying to figure out whether the fact that your driver has a basball bat next to his seat is reassuring or worrying!

I arrive in Puerto Escondido feeling dazed and gross at 6am and after being majorly ripped off on a taxi to my hostel i can finally relax. 

The night guard lets me in and is super nice (despite neither of us being able to speak the others language) and shows me to the hammocks where i can wait untill reception opens.

I get checked in (Liz is the best hostel boss ive met so far), get my dorm and have a shower. This hostel is amazing, its more like a hotel. Everything is spotlessly clean and everyone is really friendly and helpful.  

Relaxing around the pool a bit later and i get talking to Rachel from Oz and Pete from the UK. Its a chilled vibe here but thats mostly due to it being low season.

Pete and I go to the supermaket and stay there a bit too long (it has air conditioning!) grabbing more hostel essentials. Its then an absolute slog back to the hostel which is only 5 minutes down the road. We get back literally dripping with sweat, as if we have just climbed out of the shower. A rinse off and its straight into the pool, though that too has now heated up so its more like a warm bath- but its still refreshing and cooler than i am.

After a shower i accidentally fall asleep for a bit, waking up in that confused state you get when you dont know if youve slept for 5 minutes or 5 hours. 

At the bar Rachel, Pete and Rose are chatting so i join until the girls head out and me and Pete call it a night. I feel like this morning was a million years ago and cant wait for a decent sleep.

How wrong I was.

Day 6. Round and Round

My day of exploring Oaxaco starts off with a skype home, i forget that although i feel ive been away ages that its not actually been that long- especially for mum.
I get ready and head out with my map to find the Zipolite and 23 Novembre market. This is meant to be easy but because of all the teachers camping out for the protest it makes the place unrecognisable. I do eventually get to the right place, the 23 Novembre market is HUGE. You could spend hours wandering down all the little aisles and looking at all the stalls.

My next stop is the the Sainto Domingo church. Getting here seriously confuses me, i do find my way but all the streets here are in blocks and the roadsigns point different directions to my map- its frustrating! I then also get super lost making my way back to the hostel, i ask for directions and it turns out the hostel is actually directly behind me and ive walked past it! Well done Atlanta, youre gonna do well crossing the world!

The evening is chilled and after making dinner i pack up all my stuff and wait to catch my night shuttle to Puerto Escondido. Me and Dave watch some tv and then its time for another set of goodbyes and onto the next place! 

Day 5. Vamos a la aventura!

It seems i have become a morning person since coming away- who would have thought?! 

As im waking up i nearly jump out of bed, theres a loud bang followed by police sirens- am i under attack?! There is several more in the next hour and then it seems to stop, no one else seems to notice it, maybe its normal? I later find out they are a kind of firework used in protests. The teachers are on strike here as the government is bringing in new laws, theres literally hundreds of them camped around the town trying to fight against the changes.

After breakfast i decide to tackle my growing washing pile before i go exploring. Im done suprisingly quick considering im doing it by hand in the dorm sink- living the high life guys. As im hanging my stuff to dry on the balcony, Dave says hi and asks if i want to go to a Waterfall with him and some others, sure why not! 

I grab my stuff and Dave, Pete and me go to meet Laura, an aussie staying a few blocks from us and whos idea it is to go. Im super lucky as all 3 of them can speak Spanish, so i just follow along! 

To get there we get a couple of ‘Collectivos’ which are taxis that go between towns. As there is 4 of us we get an empty taxi (everyone shares here) and as we are driving out of the town another lady gets in, meaning Pete sits on a ‘seat’ (basically the handbrake) in between the driver and the new passenger- comfy! When we change taxis in Mitla its another bonding experience, with the four of us all in the back and a couple in the front. We are packed in and the only way to fit is like a spooning train, having to turn and change sides every so often- you make fast friends here!

I have no idea what to expect when we arrive at Hierve El Agua, but its amazing. The views are incredible and the pools look so inviting. We have a swim, admire the views and sunbathe and then its time for food. There are loads of littlefood stalls lined up next to each other, all shouting their menu (which are all the same) to get your business. 

We choose one and order our food (again i have to get someome to translate) and then Preston, someome who Dave met while travelling joins us. He has been camping near the waterfall and offers to show us around. We set off and from the start its crazy how far you can see, the mountains are stunning and further along the route you get an amazing view of the pools.

Its quite a long hike, which i was not prepared for in my jelly shoes, but its so worth it. We get to go right underneath the fall and theres almost no one else around.

When we finally reach the end i feel like ive ran a marathon- i really need to get fitter! We get a truck back to Mitla (theres no such thing as too many people) and then we get on what feels like a 5 star luxury bus, we all got our own seat!

We are all so tired by the time we finally get back, even though its only around 8pm. I have the most satisfying shower and fall straight to sleep.

Power to saying yes!

Day 4. Going the Distance

So today i made the journey from Mexico City to Oaxaco (pronounced Wahaka, crazy right?!) and i did not realise just how long it would take.

Firstly though i had to navigate the subway, during rush hour, with my rucksack, in 30 degree heat. The bit that really gets you is when you have to climb what seems like never ending stairs to reach the platform.

I arrive at the bus station and find the right queue, but before boarding youre searched and your bag checked- is it concerning or reassuring?!

Theres only a few of us on the bus, which is a lot nicer than i thought it would be. Theres a bathroom, tvs, aircon and you can recline your seat all the way back- 7 hours should fly by! The journey itself is beautiful, views of the mountains glide by and with the exception of stopping for the toll booths (and subsequent passenger checks) its landscape all the way.

I also got talking to a Mexican guy who after chatting decides he wants to buy me dinner and show me the town, i use my best avoiding answers and i think he gets the hint. Mexican hospitality is something to be admired, though im not feeling quite adventurous enough to accept.

From the moment i arrived i knew i was going to love Oaxaco, it hasnt got the same bustle as the city and everything just seems more inviting.

After getting my bunk and ditching my bag i had a look around the hostel, meeting my first fellow Brit Dave and Pete who is from New Jersey. Theyre both super chill and we talk about their travels and my plans- im still such a newbie it makes me jelous when i hear everyones stories but excited for what i have to come.

I find a little bakery and buy some fresh bread and also some pasta and bits from the store next door. Staples of the hostel diet!

As i sit and eat, my lack of spanish becomes apparent, pretty much everyone in my hostel is fluent and chatting away. Though i can understand some of what is said i cant respond and so have to get people to translate- i make a pact with myself to make sure i learn the language.

Feeling satisfied and excited for tomorrow i head to bed (in the top bunk, again) and drift off while spanish disney songs play below- strangely comforting hearing “Ill make a man out of you” whilst falling asleep.